Glorious oranges – with Lauraine Jacobs

Glorious oranges

Make the most of our beautiful locally grown oranges, which can be used in a variety of ways.

Farmers’ markets have been in the news: the debate continues to rage over food prices (aren’t we all sick of hearing about tomatoes, peppers and beans?) and I have noticed opinions are now being sought from market convenors. That’s a good sign, as it means mainstream media are finally recognising one of the most exciting developments on our food scene since the advent of the supermarket.

Markets are about fresh, seasonal local food. They directly connect the farmer, who lovingly produces the goodies, to the buyer, hopefully at affordable prices. You can always tell food lovers, as they’re likely to arrive at their farmers’ market very early, have at least two carry bags slung over their shoulders and head to their favourite stalls before even thinking about coffee. They recognise immediately what’s in season, because that’s all that can be found in a farmers’ market – unlike the supermarket.

It’s citrus season and there’s a wide variety of New Zealand-grown citrus fruit in both my local market in Matakana and in any good supermarket. In recent weeks I have had more than my share of local oranges. They are glorious, especially the navel varieties grown in Northland and Gisborne. I use them in salads, at breakfast time with yoghurt, for dessert and as snacks. I am full of vitamin C.

There’s a knack to making oranges look beautiful. Always peel the skin with a sharp knife. Slice around and around the fruit, carefully removing every trace of white pith to produce a glistening fresh orange with a long strip of peel to discard. You then need to cut down between each membrane and remove the orange segment, leaving behind the core with little thin flaps that almost resemble the transparent pages of a book.

Another treasure at my market is Whangaripo buffalo cheese. In a little valley tucked between Matakana and Wellsford, two generations – the Armstrong and Wills families – are producing a variety of cheeses from their small buffalo herd. Annie Armstrong’s most recent accomplishment is a tangy salty haloumi-style cheese. This is best served hot, with  the strips lightly fried until the centre is meltingly tender so it oozes into the salad when cut.

Inspired by ingredients I’d gathered from the Matakana market one recent Saturday, this fresh salad made a lovely lunch for friends. All I needed to accompany it was a crusty ciabatta from Pukeko Bakery, whose boutique bread is trucked to several farmers’ markets around Auckland.

MATAKANA SALAD OF ORANGES, BEETROOT, WATERCRESS AND FRIED HALOUMI

• 12 baby beetroot
• 3 large oranges, peeled with a knife
• ½ cup fresh hazelnuts, roasted in a hot
• oven until golden, then roughly chopped
• 2 cups young watercress, washed and
• stalks removed
• 4 tbsp light olive oil
• 12 thick slices haloumi cheese
• ½ cup mint leaves, sliced
• dressing
• 3 tbsp sherry vinegar
• 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• salt and pepper to taste

Simmer the beetroot in water until tender. Remove, cool and peel. Cut the oranges into segments and place in a bowl with the hazelnuts and watercress. Combine the dressing ingredients. Toss the salad with the dressing and divide among 6 plates. Add baby beetroot to each plate. To grill the cheese, heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan. Add the cheese and gently cook it on each side until golden with a molten centre. Top each salad with 2 hot slices of cheese. Scatter with sliced mint and serve at once. Serves 6. Wine match: a citrusy medium riesling.